Critical Reflection: Fashion Knows No Gender

For this piece, Katie Rowles had asked me to write a fashion piece. Fashion is not something that I know much about or am particularly interest in, so I wanted to find an angle for piece that would be interesting for other people who are not really interested in fashion to read as well. I got the idea for this piece after seeing an article on The Independent Online about how transgender model, Andrej Pejic, had been voted into FHMs top 100 sexist women in the world. Until I read this article, transgender modelling was something I did not know much about at all, so I thought it would be interesting to research and inform other people about. 

Finding the background information about transgender modelling, and in particular Pejic and Lea T was not particularly difficult as they have both been featured heavily in the media and the fashion industry. The most difficult thing about this piece was trying to get permission to use pictures of either Pejic or T.

I got in contact with both of their agencies around the world, and the publications their images were featured in from Italian Vogue to The Daily Mail but had absolutely no luck. The best offer I had was that I would be given permission to use the image at the cost of $91 Australian Dollars for every day it was up on line. It became apparent that it was not going to be possible to get permission to use images of either model, and I needed to start thinking outside the box.

I decided to post a status on Facebook asking if anyone knew any transgender models that I would be able to get in touch with to try and attain an image to go with my piece. My efforts paid off and as it turned out that the girl who lives next door to me had a family friend, called Alex Ramsey, who is a transgender model. I contacted Ramsey and explained the situation. He was extremely helpful and gave me permission to pick a photograph off his website to use to go with my piece, as long as I included his name and profession.

He had hundreds of pictures, and I knew I wanted to find one where he looked as feminine as possible. I also needed to choose a photo that would be appropriate to appear with the article, as some of his images were quite risqué. In the end I chose an image of Ramsey dressed as a school girl, and even though he has no hair in the image, his make up, outfit and bone structure made him look like a woman:

Fashion Knows No Gender

It is no secret that the fashion world has been at the centre of continual controversy and debate over the years concerning topics such as the use of fur or promoting images of size zero women. But when model, Andrej Pejic, was voted 98^th in FHMs top 100 sexiest women in the world 2011, a whole new side to the fashion world was publicised; the world of transgender modelling.

Transgender modelling is not a recent addition to the fashion world, dating back to the 1950s, but the story of 19 year old Andrej Pejic brought it to the forefront of public debate and scrutiny.

FHM apologised for any offence caused by the androgynous male appearing in the list. Not only did they apologise, they also described Pejic as a ‘thing’ and warned readers to ‘pass the sick bucket’ at the thought of Pejic’s dream to be a Victoria Secrets’ model, and guaranteed readers that this would never happen again. It is understandable that FHM apologised for any offence caused, but their criticism of Pejic caused as much controversy as the story itself.

Like other transgender models, Pejic has had a high profile career, modelling for the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier and Marc Jacobs, and has appeared in both French and Italian Vogues. When questioned on his reaction to the controversy surrounding his career and his place in the fashion world, Pejic replied "It's a very liberal industry. You can be yourself. Just not overweight."

We live in a world where equal rights, whether it is between different races, genders, religions or ages, are at the forefront of all areas of life – surely fashion should be no exception to this? If anything, surely transgender modelling is essential in an industry where bringing something unique to the table is everything.  Or has our tolerance and awareness of equal rights stepped too far over a boundary into the ridiculous? Should we celebrate Pejic’s achievement of being voted one of the sexiest women in the world, or should we be questioning the world we live in, in which we are no longer able to easily differentiate between genders?

Pejic was not the only androgynous model to cause a stir in the fashion world this year. Model Lea T appeared on the cover of Love magazine’s androgynous issue this year kissing Kate Moss, with Moss styled as a man and Lea T as a woman.  Below the image were the simple, yet powerful words ‘This Is Hardcore.’ And it certainly was.

Lea T was the face of Givenchy in late 2010, has appeared on the cover of many fashion publications including French Vogue and Italian Vanity Fair, featured on the Oprah Wincfrey Show, and it currently number 42 in the Top 50 Models Women List by models.com. T has been welcomed by the fashion world, but as her fame rocketed, her family relationships became increasingly strained. In a world whereshe is adored and accepted by many as the world's first transexual supermodel, her own family has rejected her.

Where T has been accepted by society but rejected by her family, Pejic has faced discrimination in society, but acceptance within his family, posing the question; will it ever be possible for a transgender model to be accepted in all walks of life?

Diary of a Winchester Lady: International Student Fashion

For those of you who don’t know, I am classed as an international student because I am from Guernsey. Guernsey is in the UK, so the fashion back home is pretty much identical to the trends here in England. I began to wonder what students from other international countries think of the fashion here and how it compares to their styles back home.

GQ UK Magazine highlights the top winter trends for men as:

·         Chinos

·         Knitted jumpers

·         Slim fit jeans

·         Leather boots

According to British Vogue, the current winter trends for women are:

·         Knee high boots

·         Tartan

·         Jumpsuits/Onsies

·         Sparkle and Shine

In the UK the images we see of American fashion are of celebrities or on programmes such as 90210 and One Tree Hill – but what are the trends for normal American students? As students settle into the fashions of winter 2011 I decided to ask some American students at the University of Winchester what they think about the winter style here and the defined must haves from British Vogue and GQ Magazine.

Joe Gallagher, 20, from New Hampshire

Joe Gallagher

“I reject fashion and subscribe to the notion that if you follow fashion you will always be behind it. So I keep it real with solid colours.”

I asked Joe what his opinions were about the four trends highlighted by GQ Magazine.

After initial confused as to what chinos are, Joe said that he has seem similar trousers in the US, but they are called Dickies. He thought that chinos with deep pockets looked cool, but that he did not think they would ever catch on in the states.

Joe seemed to have a heightened sense of distain for leather boots and vowed that he would never personally wear them, and does not think that they are a good trend for British men to follow. He always wanted to comment on the trend of Ugg Boots here in the UK, which although he understands that they are comfortable, he does not like them. According to Joe there is a trend amongst girls in America who are so dedicated to wearing Ugg Boots and Northface jumpers that the term Ugface is used to describe them. It is no secret that Ugg Boots are incredibly popular in the UK as well; I practically live in mine during the winter months, but I am extremely grateful that the term Ugface is not one that is associated with wearing the boots here in England.

Joe was extremely surprised that a man in a knitted sweater or cardigan here is considered to be fashionable: “In the United States, if I may be so bold, a man wearing a knitted jumper is assumed to be childless and living with many cats.”  He explained how, in America, sweaters and cardigans have a scholarly look and are stereotypically “accompanied with square rimmed glasses and scarves.” 

It seems that the only UK fashion trend similar to men’s fashion in New Hampshire is slim fit jeans: “Slim fit jeans are catching like wildfire back home. They used to be denoted as flamboyant and feminine with a homosexual connotation, but they’ve spread from hipster/yuppie apparel to pretty universal.’

Joe described his style as mainly wearing jeans, with ‘normal’ t-shirts and hoodies. He does not believe there is any point in following fashion trends; he prefers to “keep it real.”



Rachael Holloway, 21, from Kansas



Rachael Holloway

“I've found, on the whole, fashion is much more important to young England compared to that in America.”

Rachael explained that the fashion trends for women in the United Kingdom is very similar to the fashion in the United States, but that she has found that being fashionable is more important in everyday life here than in America: “we tend to dress up fashionably when we go out to parties, but for everyday wear it’s pretty much jeans, t-shirt and a jacket.”

She said that the trend of knee high boots here is exactly the same as in Kansas, but that using boots as a fashion statement is more varied in the UK. “American girls love knee high boots and skinny jeans… it seems that girls here [in England] are much more interested in the type of boots they have, as well as having many different pairs of really nice boots.’

As well as boots, Rachael said that Sperrys (boat shoes) are extremely popular where she is from, but that she has not seen anyone wearing them over here.

Rachael thinks that ‘going out wear’ is the same amongst women here and American women; “Sparkle and shine is exactly the same. Short sequined dresses, club tops, shiny jewellery, it’s all the same.”  She maintained that the difference comes in what English girls wear to lectures and for everyday activities. From what she has seen she argued that “girls here tend to wear really fancy outfits for class, whereas many American’s just wear sweats, or even pyjamas.”

Tartan, or plaid as it is known in America, is as popular as it is here but for a different reason. Rachael explained that it is popular because “it is one of the most durable materials, as well as providing warmth for the cold winters.” She said that tartan has come back as a fashion statement in the past five years, and that they wear it in the same way we would for example on shirts and skirts.

I asked Rachael if there were any parts of British fashion trends that surprised here, to which she replied: “Onesies! American youth would not be seen dead in onesies. You can buy them but they are mainly for girls. It has amazed me the obsession guys have with onesies here. Hilarious!”

After speaking to Joe and Rachael I have earned that American fashion is much more relaxed that the media portrays. I think we would do well to follow their example and not worry so much about what we look like and just wear our comfiest clothes instead of trying to keep up with the trends.